Monaco is the Loveliest Spot on the Entire French Coast

MONACO is assuredly the loveliest spot on the entire French coast.

More the pity that it should be delivered over to such evil associations as cling to it.

Monaco itself is a limestone crag rising out of the sea, linked to the mainland by a neck, the rocks on all sides precipitous, but cut into, to form an approach to the town. Above it towers the ridge that extends from the Mont Agel, with its fortress gleaming white against a gentian-blue sky, by La Turbie, “hunc usque Italia, abhinc Gallia,” and the Tete-de-Chien, formerly Testa- de-Camp.

The rock of Monaco takes its name from Monoikos.

It was dedicated to the Phoenician Melkarth, the One god in a house, who would suffer no other idols in his temple, and that temple anciently crowned the rock. The adoption by the Grimaldi of a monk as supporter to the arms is due to a misapprehension that Monaco is derived from Monacus.

Unhappily, matchlessly beautiful as is the situation, the buildings of Monaco do not conduce to picturesqueness.

The palace is mean and ugly to the last degree.

It has four towers, erected in 1215 by the Genoese architect Fulco del Castello, but the domestic buildings connecting these towers are of various dates, and all bad. The palace has not a single bold and characteristic feature to give it dignity.

A vast sum-from the gambling tables-has been spent upon a cathedral, designed by Charles Lenormand. Internally, and indeed externally, from near at hand it is fine and dignified. But from a distance it produces an unpleasing effect. It has no tall towers, no stately dome; but at the rear, a monstrous hump, designed to make a display of the West front, otherwise meaningless.

The distant effect of this church is that of an infant peacock, spreading its tail before it has any feathers to display. There is not a single commanding feature in the bunch of buildings huddled together on the summit of the rock, and old Mentone, with its commonplace church tower, presents a nobler aspect than dues Monaco.

No finer site in the world could be found, and none has been so wasted through incapacity to utilise it.

Monaco or Montecarlo is an independent principality, under an autocratic government.

It, its prince, its gambling hell, are under the protection of France.

The principality comprises 5436 acres, which would be the estate of a petty English squire. But the Sovereign has his Council of State, his nobles, and his bishop at command. Also an army, consisting of five officers and seventy men. Formerly there was a guard of honour in addition, whose function it was to blow trumpets and present arms when the Prince entered or left the main gate of the palace.

But this guard of honour was dissolved, February 1st, 1904, and the soldiers of the standing army now perform the duties formerly devolving on the guard. The dissolution of the corps must have resembled the famous dismissal by Bombastes Furioso: “Begone, brave army, and don’t kick up a row!” The six bronze cannon in front of the palace were given by Louis XV. Each has its name, and they bear the inscription: ” Ultima ratio regum.”

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