Vintage Jewellery: The Real Bling or Not the Real Bling?

Vintage Jewellery during the Georgian period (1714 – 1830)

The Georgian period covers a period of British history which spans that reigns of four kings, George 1, George 11, George 111 and George 1V as Prince of Wales, during his fathers’, George 111s’ illness. Vintage jewellery became available and fashionable during the Georgian period. Vintage jewellery during the Georgian period was used to simulate the real thing. Obviously this made expensive looking jewellery much more affordable. This was made practical as a result of improvements in the manufacture of paste gems. These paste gems could be set into all types of good quality settings to give the illusion of precious jewels. Georgian and subsequent Victorian vintage jewellery pieces are the earliest examples of the vogue for costume jewellery that survives in any quantity. The difference being, that during the Victorian period the vintage jewellery became unapologetically semi-precious or non-precious in its sourcing of materials. Design of individual pieces gradually over the two periods took precedence over the actual materials used within them.

The material pinchbeck, was used for the first time, as a substitute for gold for vintage jewellery. To the non expert eye it is impossible to spot the difference. The metal is the same colour as gold but an expert can distinguish it from gold by its weight. Pinchback is lighter than gold, it is made from a combination of Zinc and Copper. Although this was a common material for use in vintage jewellery during this period, few pieces of vintage jewellery created during this period has survived to be admired today. Vintage jewellery made from metal plated with gold is more common. You can see the difference between the two by checking the item for any points of wear, i.e. edges and hinges. A genuine piece of pinchback vintage jewellery will be gold at all these points of wear. Where as its gold plated compatriot will show the underlying base metal beneath.

Vintage Jewellery during the Victorian period (1837 – 1901)

Victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901. This period witness highly significant changes in fashion, these changes directly influenced the world of vintage jewellery. At the start of Victoria’s reign during the late 1830’s, jewellery was romantic and often, nationalistic. The general aesthetic led to the sentimental ‘early Victorian look’. This look is given the label ‘Victorian’, but is actually caused by the tastes of her husband, and first cousin Albert. He was instrumental in the revival of the Gothic Style in Britain. The gothic trend influenced the design worlds of both architecture and fashion. This in turn feed into the design of jewellery.

The middle years of Victoria’s reign saw great changes in the engineering. These rapid developments resulted in the start of, what is now recognised as the being of, mass production. This change can be seen reflected in the fashion world. Gradually the craftsman jeweller was rejected for the more affordable, mass produced alternative. Until this mid Victorian period, most western jewellery came from Europe. As a result of the changes in buying patterns and fashion, jewellery was soon to be imported from the Americas’ and Australia. Some jewellers, such as the American Tiffany began to expand so greatly that they open their own retail outlets in major European cities such as Paris, Barcelona, and London.

The dramatic change in jewellery, in particular, vintage jewellery, took place as a direct result of the change in fortunes of the Queen. In 1861, Prince Albert died, and Victoria began, what was to be, a protracted period of mourning. Initially Victoria’s mourning outfits involved no jewellery of note. As the months of the change in her vestige drew out however, more attention was paid to this aspect of her attire. Victoria started to wear mourning jewellery, gradually as the months drew on these initially, mourning items, became, fashion items. Whitby Jet, from the North of England being her personal favourite. Many examples of the trend can be seen today within the resulting vintage jewellery of this period.