Home Building - Entry Hardware

Since your front door is the focal point of your home, choosing the right entry door hardware is very important. It’s more than just creating a striking first impression. It’s also about securing your home against intruders. When you go to pick out your entry door hardware, keep in mind that not all of them come with locking hardware. This guide will help you understand the nuts and bolts of entry door hardware.

Types of Locks

Residential locksets, for the most part, fall into two different classifications: mortise or tubular/cylindrical. The advantages and disadvantages of each type are rooted in the way each lockset is constructed and installed. For extra security be sure all your exterior doors are protected by deadbolts with a minimum one-inch "throw." No matter how high quality your lockset is, none of that will matter unless it is properly installed.

Cylindrical/Tubular Lockset

A cylindrical lockset fits into a large hole bored into the door’s face and is operated by a key inserted into the exterior knob also called a key-in-knob lockset. It operates by using a simple latch bolt with a beveled end, which is spring loaded and retracts either by end pressure or knob rotation. Since the bolt only extends to a half-inch—anything less than an inch isn’t considered very secure—it is best to find a cylindrical lockset that comes with a deadlatch or dead locking latch bolt which engages the bolt when the door is closed to keep the latch from retracting when a thin material like a credit card is inserted in the jam. Even with a deadlatch, this type of lock is still considered the least secure type of door hardware. Despite its flaws, it remains a popular and inexpensive lockset, which is very easy to install.

Mortise Lockset

A mortise lockset fits into a rectangular pocket cut into the door’s edge and it usually comes with a deadbolt that is an integrated part of the locking mechanism, so when you turn the key from the outside it releases both the knob and the deadbolt. A mortise lockset will not only afford you a good nights sleep, because it’s the securest lock available, but it is aesthetically pleasing and comes in three styles: Knob, lever or handle and a multitude of design options. All of them offer easy operation.

Deadbolt Locks

A deadbolt lock is considered a fundamental and primary piece of exterior door security hardware. Its blunt-ended bolt has a minimum of one-inch throw and can’t be retracted by end pressure. Unlike a lockset which has a projecting knob, a good deadbolt has a low locked-side profile to protect the cylinder or lock subassembly from being forced open. Deadbolts are available in single and double-cylinder (use is restricted by local codes) configurations. The most popular style is the single-cylinder deadbolt which has a key on the exterior surface and a knob or thumbturn on the interior.

What Makes a Good Quality Lock

Check the Grade

The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) has established three standards: Grade 1, 2 and 3 for certified door hardware with Grade 1 being the highest security standard. Since Grade 3 is considered to be a suitable standard for residential application, it is the grade you will most likely find on the shelves in your local home improvement and hardware store. If you would prefer a higher grade security lock like those used in commercial applications you can buy this grade directly from most door hardware manufacturers or ask your contractor.

Forged is the Best

The best lock components are forged rather cast. In the forging process a brass rod (or “billet”) is heated, then compressed and shaped in a die under tremendous pressure. The result is a smooth and dense component that is twice as strong as its rough, die-cast counterpart. Low-quality, stamped, plated-steel components can’t even compare to forged or cast and aren’t recommended for use on exterior doors because they can easily be opened by using a screwdriver or credit card. Another benefit to forged is that its smooth surface can handle a high-quality, durable finish and won’t tarnish or fade as easily as cast components.

Look Inside the Lock

Be sure that you look inside the lock for hardened and corrosion-resistant components such as phosphor bronze springs and stainless-steel throw bolts, because chrome or brass plating will not be able to stand the test of time.

Finishes

The outer finish is probably your greatest concern because it not only enhances the look of your door, but you’ll want it to keep its look for years to come. The top door finish remains brass, but equally stunning are stainless steel, bronze, chrome, antique pewter and satin nickel. When it comes to picking your finish you should consider the elements and usage, since acid rain, humidity, salt air, lawn chemicals and heavy usage can take a toll on certain finishes, especially polished brass. Stainless steel in a satin or bright finish or an oil rubbed bronze finish is recommended for difficult conditions. Aesthetically speaking, an oil rubbed finish will develop a distinctive, wear-burnished patina over time. Warranties on finishes can range from 10 years to life, so be sure to read the package carefully and look for products with a lifetime, anti-tarnish warranty.

Designer note: If you want to add to the allure of your door you might want to go with a manufacturer that offers additional accessories to coordinate with your lock like entry lamps, door knocker, house address numbers, kick plates, mail slot trims and much more.

Cost

Door locking hardware generally ranges between $15 to $1500, but you should allow at least $60 per exterior door for a Grade 2 keyed entry knob and deadbolt and $250 for a mortise lockset.