1. Popular misinterpretation's that are commonly made in sharpening knives are uncontrolled bevel angles, failure to establish a new edge, and leaving the final bevel too rough.
2. Decide on what side to sharpen your knife. If you have an idea what angle your knife is sharpened at, you will find the best practise is to sharpen at this angle again. If finding the angle is a problem but you wish to, ask the knife manufacturer or inquire at a chefs equipment specialist's to determine what angle is appropriate for your knife. Otherwise, you may have to decide yourself on what angle to use: choose an angle of 10°-30° per side; shallower angles get the best results, but you may have to sharpen more often using this technique, steep angles are more durable, 17° is a good compromise: pick the correct angle for the use the knife will receive. When searching for a blade sharpener, make sure it provides an edge guide mechanism that supports at least a couple of different angles.
3, If you have one at hand, use an angle guide to control your edge's angle. Otherwise, you will have to try your best to decide what angle is correct, which is hard and requires a well-formed perception of angles.
4. For a symmetrical edge, sharpen the blade of your knife using this technique, drag it across the oil lubricated stone in the adverse way you would use it to slice a thin layer off the stone. This allows a burr to form and that will give the stone sharpener a longer shelf life.
5. Grind away, until you are 50% through the steel on your blade. Don't worry if this is not accurate , just guess. For a one-sided edge ("scandi grind", "chisel grind", etc.),
6. Once one side is done, turn the blade to the blunt side and continue; the easiest way to know if you done this correctly is to sharpen until you have raised a "burr", a feature that steel will naturally form when one bevel is ground until it meets another. It will generally be too small to see, but you can feel it scraping/catching on your thumb if you stroke away (dull side of the knife to the sharp) from the edge. Finer stones produce smaller burrs, but they are still there.
7. Turn the blade to the other side and sharpen the other side of the blade in a similar fashion.
8. Remove the resulting burr by "cutting into" a hone (a finer stone). That is, still holding the blade at the same controlled angle, move the blade in the opposite direction you moved the blade in steps 4-8. Some people prefer to use a dry sharpening stone but for reasons beyond the scope of this article.
9. If you wish, you may further polish or even strop the edge to the desired sharpness. If your knife is for push cutting, this will give you better results (cutting directly into materials, pushing straight down without sliding the blade across the object) but will take away the slicing ability of the blade: without the 'microscopic serrations' left by grinding with a stone, the blade tends to not bite into things like tomato skins.